The Swiss active ingredient manufacturer Lipoid Cosmetics has unveiled two plant-based ingredients designed to promote a brighter, more even skin tone. The ‘Depigmentation Factor’ combines an extract from bearberry leaves with a liposomal delivery system, whilst ‘Citrolumine 8’ utilises highly concentrated plant extracts from bitter orange and grapefruit. Both active ingredients are designed to target different processes involved in melanin formation, thereby reducing uneven pigmentation and dark spots. Encapsulation in liposomes is intended to transport the active ingredients deeper into the epidermis in a targeted manner whilst also offering skin-nourishing properties, the company explained. Consumers are increasingly seeking skin-brightening cosmetic solutions with natural ingredients, good skin tolerance and additional skincare benefits.

Bearberry to combat melanin formation

According to Lipoid Kosmetik, the ‘Depigmentation Factor’ ingredient utilises naturally occurring beta-arbutin from bearberry leaves, which is said to inhibit the formation of the skin pigment melanin. Polyphenols, flavonoids and tannins complement the extract with antioxidant and skin-refining properties. Phospholipids, as the main component of cell membranes, act as a delivery system. They are said to support targeted delivery within the epidermis. The manufacturer reports that, in several studies, the active ingredient reduced pigmentation spots and visibly brightened the skin. At the same time, skin hydration and comfort were improved. The active ingredient is intended for daily use and is certified by COSMOS and NATRUE.

Flavonoids from citrus fruits

The active ingredient ‘Citrolumine 8’ is based on highly concentrated citrus plant compounds derived from bitter orange and grapefruit. These are said to influence the processes involved in melanin formation. Unsaturated phospholipids are said to enhance the absorption of these plant compounds into the epidermis. Studies have reportedly shown that the active ingredient, amongst other things, inhibits tyrosinase – the key enzyme involved in pigmentation – thereby reducing its activity within the cells and influencing other pigmentation signalling pathways. Tests on different skin types and in various areas of application have confirmed its efficacy. Lipoid Kosmetik recommends the active ingredient for formulations designed to reduce age spots and pigmentation marks, ensure a brighter, more even skin tone and enhance the skin’s radiance.

Source: Lipoid Kosmetik