French ingredient manufacturer Seppic is expanding its ‘Sepilife’ range with the new functional cosmetic ingredient ‘Sepilife Neos’. It is designed to thicken and stabilise cosmetic formulations whilst also providing a fresh skin feel. According to the company, the patented liquid polymer is based on naturally sourced squalane. Squalane is a skin-conditioning lipid that softens the skin and, in a similar form, is also a component of human sebum. According to the company, the ingredient has a 65 per cent natural origin content, is free from essential oils and is not classified as a microplastic. As a ready-to-use solution, Sepilife Neos can be processed at low temperatures, thereby reducing the energy required for the manufacture of cosmetic formulations.

A refreshing sensation on application

According to Seppic, the squalane contained in the polymer ensures a silky feel on the skin. Upon application, Sepilife Neos produces what is known as a ‘quick-break effect’. The aqueous phase is released immediately, thereby imparting an intense sensation of freshness. This is followed by a soft, non-sticky feel on the skin, without any flaking. Seppic is thus also responding to the growing importance of squalane in skincare. According to the company’s market data, 11 per cent of newly launched skincare products now contain squalane. This proportion has risen by an average of nine per cent over the past six years.

For sprays and emulsions

In addition to its sensory properties, Sepilife Neos is designed to thicken and stabilise formulations. The ingredient can stabilise oil phases containing up to 35 per cent oil without the need for additional emulsifiers or neutralisation. Furthermore, the polymer is suitable for sprayable formulations and is compatible with, amongst other things, acidic pH values, solvents, preservatives, fruit acids and various oils. This allows the viscosity to be adapted to different applications – from light sprays to rich emulsions. The new ingredient is designed to enable formulators to combine the high standards of ‘clean beauty’ with high-quality textures and excellent sensory properties.