Swiss active ingredient manufacturer Givaudan has unveiled ‘SensoTrue DM5’, a new bio-based emollient for professional hair care. Developed by the Givaudan Active Beauty division, this alternative to conventional silicones is designed to impart softness, shine and moisture to the hair whilst also offering a better environmental footprint, according to the company. The ingredient is derived from renewable raw materials such as sugar cane and recycled terpenes from pine wood. In its production, the company combines biotechnological processes with green chemistry methods. This is in response to the growing demand for more sustainable alternatives to conventional silicones.

Triple action

The new conditioning ingredient is designed to mimic – and in some cases surpass – the conditioning and sensory properties of silicones. To achieve this, Givaudan states that it combines various hydrocarbon compounds and conditioning polymers that work on three levels: light, volatile components are said to distribute evenly across the hair and then evaporate without leaving any residue. Other components are said to penetrate the hair fibre, providing long-lasting moisture and strengthening the hair from within. The emollients are also said to form a light, flexible protective film, smoothing the cuticle and reducing frizz. According to Givaudan, SensoTrue DM5 is suitable for shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, leave-in treatments and styling products.

High satisfaction in tests

According to the company, in instrumental tests carried out on European hair, SensoTrue DM5 resulted in a significant improvement in hair properties: wet hair was easier to comb, with less frizz and fewer flyaways. The new ingredient also outperformed the silicones tested, according to Givaudan. In a ten-day application trial, more than 85 per cent of the 199 women from Brazil and Indonesia observed visible effects after just the first application. Up to 88 per cent felt their hair was healthier, whilst up to 92 per cent were satisfied with their hair care routine. The ingredient is colourless and odourless, as well as free from preservatives, and is therefore said to be versatile for use in cosmetic formulations.

Source: Givaudan