The Japanese cosmetics group Shiseido claims to have discovered a dual effect of coriander on skin cells. The company stated that the fruit extract (Coriandrum sativum) eliminates aged cells whilst simultaneously promoting the growth of normal, healthy cells. The increase in healthy cells also stimulates collagen production. The discovery is based on findings from more than 20 years of Shiseido’s research into regenerative medicine for skin and hair. As early as 1997, the company developed a coriander extract that promotes the growth of hair cells and leads to thicker, stronger hair. This has now also been used to develop a new approach to skincare.

Old cells attack young ones

According to Shiseido, aged cells release signalling molecules that promote inflammation and have a negative impact on surrounding healthy cells. Research in regenerative medicine is therefore focused on eliminating ageing cells. To this end, the company utilised a coriander extract whose effect on hair follicle cells had already been discovered in earlier research. Certain fatty acids in the extract are said to have high physiological activity and may also act on the skin’s fibroblasts. These cells produce the ground substance as well as fibres such as collagen and elastin, giving the skin firmness and support. The coriander extract could thus help to restore the skin’s ability to produce new components. This dual effect opens up a new, fundamental approach to anti-ageing skincare, the company stated.

New approaches for younger-looking skin

In experiments involving skin fibroblasts aged by oxidative stress, the addition of coriander fruit extract triggered the death of the aged cells and led to the successful elimination of senescent cells, without causing such effects in normal cells. The addition of the extract to a mixture of roughly equal parts healthy and aged cells led to a decrease in senescent cells and an increase in normal cells. Certain markers of skin ageing also decreased. Shiseido therefore intends to use these findings in future to develop new cosmetic approaches for the prevention and treatment of skin ageing, with the aim of restoring skin functions.