The presentation by Camilo Bueno, Managing Director of CaryO, focused on a raw material that is becoming increasingly important in the cosmetics industry: cacay oil. It is extracted from the nut of the cacay tree (Caryodendron orinocense), which grows wild in the Amazon region. Unlike many natural raw materials that come from monocultures, CaryO deliberately works with existing wild populations in the forest.

Of particular cosmetic relevance is the combination of natural retinol, linoleic acid and beta-sitosterol. Retinol supports cell renewal and collagen formation; linoleic acid strengthens the skin barrier and helps retain moisture; and beta-sitosterol has a soothing effect.

Clinical trials conducted by Derma Consult GmbH using a neutral cream containing five per cent cacay oil showed, in 30 test subjects after 28 days of use, a 36 per cent increase in skin moisture, a ten per cent increase in skin elasticity and a 14 per cent increase in skin firmness. At the same time, wrinkle depth was reduced by 15 per cent. Clinical data is also available for hair care, confirming that Cacay oil outperforms argan oil. Further efficacy studies are currently in preparation.

Sensory-wise, the oil is light, absorbs quickly and has a subtle nutty scent with a golden colour. In the European cosmetics market, Cacay oil has already established itself as a valuable ingredient for premium and luxury skincare products. Sesderma, one of the world’s most successful dermocosmetics laboratories, has developed its own product range, SESCACAY, based on cacay oil, due to its proven anti-ageing effects and excellent tolerability on sensitive skin. In Germany, the raw material is distributed by GfN & Selco.

Wild-harvested rather than plantation-grown

What makes this raw material special lies not only in its cosmetic benefits, but also in its origin. The cacay tree grows wild in the Amazon region and bears fruit for decades without needing to be planted or replaced. CaryO purchases the wild-harvested cacay nuts on a long-term basis at a fair price.

This makes the preservation of the forest the economic foundation of the business model. According to CaryO, 3,409 hectares have already been protected from deforestation in this way. Camilo Bueno, Managing Director of CaryO S.A.S., reports: “Our supply chain depends on the rainforest remaining alive. This is not a sustainability promise, but a condition for our very existence.”

Today, CaryO works with more than 50 producer families across five Amazonian departments, including indigenous communities. The aim is to increase this number to more than 1,000 within the next two years. CaryO is developing the Wild Cacay Project in the Colombian Amazon in partnership with the German Society for International Cooperation (GIZ) and the Peace Dividend Initiative (PDI).

Verifiable traceability

Against the backdrop of stricter European requirements for supply chain transparency, CaryO is committed to verifiable traceability. For every batch, it is possible to identify which collector families the processed nuts come from – from tree to bottle. Among other things, INATrace, a tool used in German development cooperation, is utilised for this purpose.

Full utilisation of the nut

CaryO adopts an integrated approach in which the cacay nut is utilised in its entirety. The cosmetic oil is extracted from the kernel. The press cake is turned into a flour containing up to 40 per cent protein, for which a novel food application is currently pending with the EFSA. Should this be successful, it would be the first Colombian food product to be authorised under this regulation. The hard shell is processed into a mechanical exfoliant for cosmetic use. The remaining organic waste is turned into compost, which the communities use for their own food production. CaryO runs training courses on this in collaboration with the producer families.

This approach increases the yield per kilogramme of nut processed and thus forms an important economic foundation of the model. The higher the total yield, the better the price CaryO can pay at source. The purchase of the nuts accounts for around 50 per cent of the total production costs of the oil, which is higher than the industry standard for comparable speciality oils such as argan, marula or rosehip.

Significance for cosmetics brands

Cacay oil is an anti-ageing active ingredient with clinically proven efficacy and, at the same time, forms part of a supply chain that makes a positive contribution to nature and the conservation of the Amazon region.

Those who formulate with cacay oil are choosing a raw material with sensory and functional properties for skin and hair care, a verifiable origin and a transparent value chain. This is precisely where the added value lies for companies seeking to combine efficacy, transparency and regulatory compliance.