Packaging specialist Aptar Beauty has unveiled the development of new spray technologies designed to meet the changing formulations in the cosmetics industry. The company explained that this is driven by trends towards alcohol-free and microencapsulated fragrance formulations, which place new demands on dispensing systems. Alternative formats that are gentler and more skin-friendly, offer additional skincare benefits and comply with regulatory requirements to reduce volatile ingredients are set to gain in importance. This requires special fragrance dispensers that produce an even, fine spray pattern even with highly viscous or two-phase formulations.

Microencapsulation as a new fragrance technology

The “HDS Inune” and “HDS VP4” fragrance pumps have been specially developed for alcohol-free formulations to produce a consistent and wide spray angle that preserves the sensory experience of traditional fragrances. With suspended fragrance capsules, however, the greatest challenge is ensuring they remain intact within the bottle and pump. At the same time, the gel and capsules must be dispensed in the optimal ratio without clogging the pump system. “Fragrance formulas are constantly evolving, and the pumps must constantly adapt,” says Aptar manager Thomas Clemence.

Microcaps helps Guerlain

In a case study, the company developed a solution for Guerlain in collaboration with the Swiss start-up Microcaps, which specialises in the microencapsulation of perfumes. For the limited edition “Aqua Allegoria Perle”, an alcohol-free, water-based gel formulation was developed with microencapsulated fragrance pearls that release their scent upon application whilst also offering skincare benefits. Aptar optimised the balance between formulation, capsule density, gel viscosity and spray technology for this purpose. The example demonstrated that new fragrance formats increasingly require a synergy of ingredients, technology and packaging, and that the boundaries between perfume and skincare are becoming increasingly blurred.

Source: Aptar