Cosmetics company Shiseido has developed a new technology for mascara that combines two previously incompatible requirements: waterproof yet washable. According to the company, the so-called Washable Lock Technology combines long-lasting curl fixation with the ability to be removed with warm water. The technical innovation is intended to solve a well-known eye make-up problem: highly adhesive oil-based formulations maintain the curl, but usually require special cleansing oils or other cleansers to remove, while water-soluble variants are easier to remove but offer less hold. The first products featuring the new technology will be launched in early 2026 .

Cinematic, but water-soluble

At the heart of the development is a novel polymer film structure that, according to Shiseido, fulfils various functions: it provides a protective shield and resistance to external influences such as moisture and sebum, but can swell and soften on contact with warm water, allowing the colour to be removed. This function was achieved through the targeted selection and mixing of different monomers within a single polymer. The company uses a non-water-based dispersion method to disperse the polymer in the oily mascara formulation. In addition, Shiseido says that an ideal formulation was found by adjusting the mixing ratios with other ingredients.

Solution for other cosmetics too

Tests have shown that the combination of reliable hold and washable removal is possible in practice. According to the manufacturer, the curl effect was maintained over a long period of time, while the film structure could be removed by gently rubbing it with warm water. Shiseido also sees the Washable Lock design concept as a technology that could offer solutions for similar challenges in other decorative cosmetics applications.

Source: Shiseido