The idea of harnessing the power of nature to help the skin heal itself is a common thread running through the innovative new ingredients on show at this year's edition of CosmeticBusiness on 5 and 6 June. An important focus is on how recently discovered active plant ingredients and new technologies can be used in cosmetics products. Here, we will explore the major trends.

Trend 1: Plant-Based Active Ingredients

Be it an antioxidant olive fruit extract from Gaia Tech or an extract of the Zingiber ginger family from Sederma designed to combat dark circles, natural active ingredients are perfectly in line with the motto of this year's trade show, "Where Beauty Starts". A particularly notable aspect is that some exhibitors are unveiling never-before-seen effects. Baolift from novoclon essentially trains the skin to exhibit more durability and vitality, helping it appear fresher and more youthful. And with its LignoGuard technology, Austrian start-up Lignovations is utilising the natural protective properties of lignin for cosmetics products. Lignin is a central element of plant biomass.

Trend 2: Active Ingredients Sourced from the Ocean

Exhibitors are becoming increasingly successful at explaining the properties of various marine life forms and gaining insights about how cosmetics ingredients work. MaBitec's Sealuliss Cellulite Eraser, for example, takes inspiration from the adaptive strategies of seaweed. In Luteana Scalp, French biotechnology company Microphyt uses molecules derived from microalgae to strengthen the scalp's hydrolipidic film. NCD Ingredients, meanwhile, mixes a concentrate derived from the nannochlosopsis oculata microalgae and Kalahari watermelon oil in Natura-Tec SeaWonder. This active ingredient is intended to regulate inflammatory processes and restore the skin barrier.

Trend 3: Biomimetic Active Ingredients

Nature often simply serves as a role model that can then be effectively imitated. Seppic’s active ingredient Sagacious was inspired by the behaviour of plants in outer space, for instance. It leverages glycolipid molecules from Himanthalia elongata algae to combat skin sagging. Spanish manufacturer LipoTrue will present Frag-Brillin remastered at the trade show. This is a biomimetic fragment of human fibrillin-1 derived from wild plants. It is said to support the formation of microfibrils and elastic fibres, thus restoring the skin's elasticity.