05 - 06 June 2024 in Munich CosmeticBusiness



23/05/2022 CosmeticBusiness

Shiseido Shrinks Hyaluronan Molecules

Magnesium and Sodium Enable Controlled Hyaluronic Acid Skin Penetration

Shiseido has developed a new application for hyaluronic acid that is based on its own research. According to the company, its so-called "Shape-Shifting HA Technology" is able to control the volume of the acid. The manufacturer uses magnesium ions to reduce the size of the acid molecules so they can penetrate deeper into the skin.

Shrink and Re-Expand

Hyaluronic acid can form a film on the skin's surface and thus provide a high level of moisturisation, the company continues. However, the size of the molecule prevents it from penetrating deeply into the outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum. Shiseido first aims to reduce the size of the molecules by adding magnesium ions, and then use sodium metaphosphate in order to re-expand the shrunk molecules. This allows the hyaluronic acid to regain its original properties, thus delivering significant moisture to the stratum corneum.

In cooperation with Gifu Pharmaceutical University, the company discovered that magnesium ions have an effect on epidermal cells and can support cellular hyaluronic acid production. Earlier studies had already shown that magnesium can rebuild the skin's natural barrier. The cosmetics manufacturer is now using these findings to develop innovative new skincare solutions.

Hyaluronan Treatments Without Injections

Hyaluronic acid is a biopolymer that is claimed to be biologically active in various ways as well as to have a moisturising effect on the skin. Since the amount of hyaluronan in the epidermis decreases with age, Shiseido says it is vital to make sure the acid reaches the deeper layers of skin. However, the high molecular weight of hyaluronan and the strong barrier presented by the stratum corneum are a big hurdle, the manufacturer explains. The newly developed technology aims to make it possible for hyaluronic acid molecules to enter the skin using a non-invasive method.

Source, photo: Shiseido

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